The hidden gems of the French Riviera

There are hidden gems still to be unearthed on the Côte d’Azur, finds Cheryl Markosky.

Once an impoverished region with only fishing, olive groves and flowers grown for perfumeries in nearby Grasse, the Côte d’Azur became one of the first modern resorts at the end of the 18^th century. Upper-crust Britons were the first to discover this sparkling seashore, which became an international playground when new railways offered easy access for Russian, American and other foreign aristocrats.

From Brigitte Bardot searing on the sand, Princess Diana reclining on Al Fayed’s yacht and pouting starlets posing on the red carpet in Cannes, the uber-chic French Riviera has always attracted the mischievous, modish and moneyed.

But surely because the world’s most expensive piece of coastline is so overcrowded, it makes sense to explore the surrounding areas. Yet, you’d be surprised how many secret little enclaves exist if you take the time to dig them out.

La Plage de Bregancon: It’s a step back in time to how the Côte must have looked in the Fifties

“You heard it from me first that the nicest beach on the Côte d’Azur is La Plage de Bregancon, where the French president has his summer residence,” says Roddy Aris from Winkworth France. “It’s a step back in time to how the Cote must have looked in the Fifties.”

No buildings, bulrushes, clean sand, turquoise water and views of the Isles de Port-Cros and Porquerolles, it’s magical, he adds. “The closest airport is Hyeres and the local towns of Bormes les Mimosas, le Lavandou and Hyeres are refreshingly French, and for the most part, unspoilt.”

Aris also applauds La Garde Freinet and neighbouring Plan de la Tour, Grimaud and Sainte Maxime, where a large bastide costs about €1.3 million.

Refreshingly French and unspoilt

An alternative to teeming ultra-chic St Jean-Cap Ferrat for a Mediterranean bolthole is less glitzy Eze. Mathias Debois-Froge, manager of John Taylor’s office in Cap-Ferrat, praises this ancient village with its red-tiled roofs sloping down the hills to a sparkling blue bay, medieval streets, the ruins of a 12^th century castle and a Jardin Exotique. It’s also home to Bono, lead singer of U2, and Julian Lennon.

Debois-Froge believes Eze is a good place to invest, as “it’s easy to get there, Monaco’s only two-and-a-half kilometers away, Cap Ferrat’s just down the road, and the lifestyle’s amazing with good beach restaurants where you can feast on local sea bass baked in salt.”

His colleague Tim Sanders, head of John Taylor’s Vence office, recommends ferreting out hidden gems within a popular town, rather than the often overrun centre touristique. One favourite concealed square is Place Godeau in medieval Vence, where the clock seems to have stopped.

“My gardener told me about a charming table d’hote there, which is a little gastronomic find. I also came across a granite column in the square honouring the god Mars Vintium that was once part of a Roman ‘Arc de Triomphe’,” he explains.

Griamud has the liveliest all-year round community in the St Tropez area

Hugo Skillington of Hugo Skillington Immobilier in Grimaud suggests opting for ‘ordinary’ Cogolin over ‘tres chic’ Grimaud. “Despite its poor press, it’s actually a jolly nice little market town, that without doubt has the liveliest all-year round community in the St Tropez area.”

Skillington also points out that little-known La Croix Valmer is a good spot on the south-facing coast of the St Tropez peninsular. “It has a far better climate than north-facing nearby St Tropez and prices are 30% lower.”

The hilltop village of Tourtour - “very pretty and low-key” – is another good bet; as is picturesque Villecroze where Skillington sold an estate to James Dyson. Bargemon, between Draguignan and Grasse, is the hidden haunt for the Beckhams. “That too was a lifestyle choice, offering the joy of the countryside for their nippers, rather than the glitz nearer the coast.”

William Pearson from Prime French Properties is happy to pass on five tucked-away jewels. One just hopes they remain relatively secret now that the word’s out.

*Les Hauts de Cagnes

A picturesque old fortified village above Cagnes-sur-Mer with shady narrow streets and postcard-beautiful stone buildings. “There are some lovely restaurants hidden away, but little sign of typical tourist shops,” explains Pearson.

*Plascassier

A quiet village perche between Valbonne and Grasse, there are lovely old houses and churches and jasmine is produced locally. Edith Piaf owned a house here and this was the place where she died. ‘Non, je ne regrette rien.’

*Opio

Just north-east of Grasse, Opio derives from the Latin ‘oppidum’ (fortified town). You can still locate several Roman artefacts, as well as a 12^th century church in the town. Apart from riding and beautiful walks, Pearson says there’s also a golf course close by.

*Chateauneuf de Grasse

A medieval village at 413 metres with views towards the Bay of Cannes, you step back in time when you arrive here. You’ll find a mixture of stone and mortar and stucco-faced houses with shutters and colourful window-gardens, a medical facility, library and a few restaurants. Cannes and Nice airports are about 30 minutes away.

*Auribeay sur Siagne

Only 13 kilometers from Cannes and 136 metres above sea level, this 16^th century village has a carefully restored 18^th century church, lovely old buildings lining the streets and alleyways and stunning views over the countryside.